Routes to сlimb Carstensz
The Normal Route (Harrer's Route)
The ascent and the descent take roughly 12 – 15 hours. The difficulty is 3 – 4 UIIA. The most difficult section is just below the summit. The wall, which so far sloped under a moderate 10 – 15 degrees, now changes into approximately 80 meters (260 ft) long vertical degree of difficulty 5 – 5+ UIIA. The rock is good, and rarely loose. This wall does not usually pose any problem. This is followed by a progress to the summit on a jagged edge. The climber is faced here with other problems contributing to its difficulty, an approximately ten meters high, smooth overhang wall (difficulty 6 – 7+ UIIA). It can be bypassed, or one can fix a rope to its wall. Less experienced climbers can surmount the wall using jumars, and other difficult sections towards the summit can be also quite well secured. You need long ropes for the way down. A large part of the Carstensz Pyramid must be roped down.
This route offers lies in difficulty in between the Normal Route and the American Direct. You can expect a long ascent. It is mostly scrambling. However, there are some narrower parts, which are more difficult. You have to also beware of loose rocks.
The American Direct
This route leads straight up to the summit. It is a very exposed route. It offers great climbing experience, but it is the most difficult one. The bad news is that the difficulty increases as you get closer to the summit – the worst part is the steep Carstensz headwall.